Buying a car privately
Things to look out for
When examining your prospective new car, there are a number of things to watch out for to ensure you make the right decision. The following are important tips. This is not an exhaustive guide, it is recommended you obtain a mechanical inspection when buying a vehicle privately. GetApproved.com.au is able to help put you in touch with a recognised mechanical inspector in your area.
Paperwork
When buying a car privately, make sure the person from whom you are buying the car actually has ownership of the vehicle. Make sure the details on the car's registration papers match up with those on their driver's license.
Make sure there is no money owing on the car. Call the Register of Encumbered Vehicles in the state that the car is registered in or log on to the website to find out.
In New South Wales, Victoria and Queensland, the seller must provide you with a certificate of roadworthiness.
The vehicle's compliance plate is normally located on the partition between the car's interior and the engine. Be sure that the Date of Manufacture and the Vehicle Identification Number listed on it are the same as those given on the registration papers.
The number plates and the engine number, which is situated on the actual engine, should also tally with those on the papers you have been given. Demand an explanation if this is not the case. Information that doesn't match might indicate a stolen car or an engine that has been replaced without the registration authority being notified.
Beneath the hood
Remove the radiator cap. The coolant should be bright in colour, and be clean and uncontaminated by other susbtances. If oil is mixed in with the coolant the vehicle might have big problems with the engine.
Have a look at the dipstick. If the oil looks milky, grey or diluted, it may signify that the engine is in bad shape.
Make sure there is no rust or other damage to the battery and its mounting platform or the radiator cooling fins.
Have a look at the hoses. Soft or spongy ones will need to be replaced.
The transmission oil ought to be cherry red.
The vehicle's exterior
Inspect the tread of the tyres (which ought to be 4mm minimum), not forgetting the spare. If you notice that the tread has been worn down unevenly, there may be trouble with the suspension or with the steering.
Look for any spillage of oil under the chassis, which would suggest a leak.
Inspect the car's paintwork for bumps, bubbles or inconsistencies in colour – it could be the result of a past accident or rust. If you come across an area that looks suspicious, a handy trick is to run a fridge magnet over the dodgy bit – if filler has been used to hide a blemish, the magnet won't stick to it.
If panels seem to be hanging off a little, or not adhering properly to the car body; if doors or windows seem to stick, or won't open or close fully; or if the boot doesn't appear to fit, it might mean that the car has been in an accident.
Look out for chipped or cracked glass (headlights, mirrors etc.), as it can be expensive to replace and also indicates a general carelessness in the seller or previous driver.
Test the suspension by pressing down and then releasing one corner of the vehicle. It will bounce more than once if the shock absorbers are worn out.
The vehicle's interior
Check the wear of the carpets, the upholstery and the trim.
Check the wear of the seatbelts, and ensure they still operate smoothly and effectively.
Test the comfort of all the seats. You'll potentially be spending a lot of time sitting on them.
Check the seats and headrests can all be manipulated.
Look for signs of rust inside the car, including under the carpet if you can get at it. Lift up the mats, in the boot as well as the main interior, as a sneaky seller might attempt to use them to hide corrosion or damage.
Inspect all the lights, dashboard equipment, instrument gauges and mod cons (eg. air conditioning, power windows, central locking, audio system) to establish they are all in functional and working order. Spend time doing this, and check you have remembered all the accessories.
Enquire if the audio system has a security PIN, and get the documentation and user manual if possible.
Check the toolkit and jack are installed and in good nick.
Get the engine idling
Open the bonnet and then start the engine.
Listen out for unnatural running noises, such as banging or rattling in the engine compartment.
Watch the exhaust. Rev the engine several times – if you see smoke, there could be serious problems with the engine. If the exhaust sounds noticeably loud, the car may need a new muffler.
Open the oil filler cap; if you see or smell fumes it's bad news.
Look for any signs of leakage outside the car.
Go for a drive
Choose a quiet time of day, or head for the back roads or the country so that you don't have heavy traffic distracting you from what the car's up to. Don't rush things; there's no hurry to get it back, so take your time and give the vehicle a thorough test drive.
Put the engine through its paces. Pay attention to it in a variety of conditions – uphill, downhill, flat; accelerating, decelerating, braking and cruising.
Be on the alert for any odd noises – if you can find some unsealed road or a stretch with speed bumps, this is an ideal test.
Make note of any warning lights on the dashboard.
Keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
Test the brake a few times. Establish that the pedal is firm, and that the car doesn't pull off to one side.
Wait for a straight stretch and loosen our hold on the steering. Listing to one side is a signal of misaligned steering or worn out suspension.
Keep an eye out for any smoke coming out of the exhaust.
All gear changes should be smooth. Does the clutch or the transmission scrape or whine, or respond stiffly?